For years, the idea of applying oil to the face sent many people running in the opposite direction. Oily skin getting oilier. Breakouts worsening. Pores clogging. The concerns were understandable, but they were largely built on misconceptions. The truth is that facial oils, when chosen and used correctly, are among the most beneficial additions you can make to a skincare routine, regardless of your skin type.
At Eleni London Skin Care and Aesthetics, we have spent over four decades working closely with clients on their skin concerns, and the question of facial oils comes up more often than you might expect. So let us set the record straight.
What Facial Oils Actually Do
Facial oils do not function like moisturisers. They do not add water to the skin. Instead, they work primarily as occlusives and emollients, meaning they seal in existing moisture and soften the skin's texture. Many oils also carry a wealth of antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids that support the skin's barrier function and address specific concerns such as inflammation, uneven tone, and fine lines.
The skin's natural lipid barrier is made up of fats and oils. When this barrier is compromised, whether through over-cleansing, environmental stress, or ageing, the skin becomes vulnerable. A well-chosen facial oil can help restore that protective layer, which is why dismissing all oils as problematic misses the bigger picture entirely.
Matching the Right Oil to Your Skin Type
Not every oil suits every skin type, and this is where a personalised approach makes all the difference. Here is a breakdown of which oils tend to work best for different skin concerns.
Dry and Dehydrated Skin
Dry skin responds exceptionally well to richer, more nourishing oils. Rosehip oil is a popular choice, packed with vitamin A and essential fatty acids that help repair the barrier and improve the appearance of fine lines. Argan oil is another strong option, lightweight enough not to feel heavy yet deeply conditioning. Marula oil is similarly well-tolerated, absorbing quickly whilst delivering meaningful hydration.
For clients with chronically dry skin, applying a facial oil as the final step in your evening routine, after your serum and moisturiser, locks in everything beneath it and prevents overnight moisture loss.
Oily and Acne-Prone Skin
This is where most people hesitate, yet certain oils are genuinely beneficial for oily skin. The key is choosing non-comedogenic oils, meaning those less likely to block pores.
Squalane (derived from plants rather than sharks in modern formulations) is one of the most universally compatible oils available. It closely mimics the skin's own sebum, which means it absorbs readily and can actually help regulate oil production over time. Jojoba oil behaves similarly and is technically a liquid wax, making it highly compatible with most skin types, including oily ones.
The logic is counterintuitive but sound: when oily skin is stripped by harsh cleansers or left without adequate moisture, it often overproduces sebum to compensate. A lightweight, compatible oil can signal to the skin that it is balanced, helping to reduce that overproduction.
Sensitive and Reactive Skin
Sensitive skin requires the most careful selection. Look for oils with minimal processing and as few additional ingredients as possible. Chamomile-infused oils and sea buckthorn (used sparingly, as it is potent) have calming properties, as does calendula oil, which has a long history of use in soothing irritated skin.
Patch testing is non-negotiable for sensitive skin. Apply a small amount to your inner arm or behind the ear for a few days before introducing any new oil to your face.
Mature and Ageing Skin
Mature skin tends to produce less sebum naturally, so it benefits greatly from the additional lipid support that facial oils provide. Rosehip remains a favourite here due to its vitamin C content and its ability to support collagen synthesis. Bakuchiol-infused oils (a plant-based retinol alternative) are gaining significant traction for those who want the anti-ageing benefits of retinol without the sensitivity it can sometimes cause.
Richer oils such as avocado oil and evening primrose oil are also worth considering for mature skin, providing substantial nourishment and helping to plump the appearance of fine lines.
How to Layer Facial Oils Correctly
The golden rule of skincare layering is to apply products from thinnest to thickest consistency. Facial oils are typically applied after water-based serums and before or after your moisturiser, depending on the formulation.
A practical sequence would look like this:
- Cleanser
- Toner (if used)
- Water-based serum
- Moisturiser
- Facial oil (as the final step to seal everything in)
Some people prefer to mix a few drops of oil into their moisturiser before applying, which is perfectly valid. What you want to avoid is applying an oil before a water-based product, as oil repels water and will prevent those products from penetrating the skin effectively.
Start with a small amount. Two to three drops warmed between your palms and pressed gently into the skin is usually sufficient. More is not better with facial oils, and overuse can lead to congestion, particularly for oily skin types.
For morning use, choose lighter oils and ensure any SPF you apply goes on as the absolute last step, after the oil has had a moment to settle.
A Note on Ingredient Quality
The quality of the oil matters considerably. Cold-pressed, unrefined oils retain more of their active compounds compared to heat-processed versions. This is particularly relevant for oils like rosehip, where much of the vitamin content can be degraded by high-temperature extraction.
At Eleni London Skin Care and Aesthetics, our approach to skincare has always centred on clinical precision and ingredient integrity. Our product range is vegan, cruelty-free, and clinically tested, developed with the same principles we apply to every treatment in our Northcote Road clinic: that your skin deserves nothing less than the highest standard of care.
Finding What Works for You
The honest answer is that no blog post can tell you exactly which oil is right for your skin. Skin is individual, it changes with the seasons, with hormones, and with age, and what works beautifully for one person can be less effective for another. That is precisely why a personalised consultation is worth its weight in gold.
If you are curious about how facial oils might fit into your specific skincare routine, or if you have been struggling with a skin concern and are not sure where to start, we would love to help. Visit elenilondon.com to learn more about our treatments, explore our product range, and book a consultation with our team.
Healthy, well-cared-for skin is not a luxury. It is something every person deserves, and we are here to help you get there.